Shop. We favor EKS (Velás-quez 28, tel. 011 34 91 578 42 44) and Scooter (Callejón de Jorge Juan 12, tel. 011 34 91 576 47 49) for beachwear and urban threads.

Drink. In summer, the Plaza de Santa Ana is abuzz with revelers zipping between tapas bars, flamenco venues and clubs.

Eat. Order the house special of scrambled eggs with fries at Los Huevos de Lucio (Cava Baja 30, tel. 011 34 91 366 29 84).

Relax. The glorious Gijón, with a leafy terrace, has been the hub of café society for decades (Paseo de Recoletos 21, tel. 011 34 91 521 54 25).

Sleep. The stately Santo Mauro is well located in the heart of town (from $400 for doubles; tel. 011 34 91 319 69 00; ac-hotels.com